Spain 5/10

Today was the most difficult 37 mile ride I can remember. Here's what it looked like. 

We had an hour plus lunch which was primarily a lecture on olive oil tasting.  See photo at left.  There are 14 characteristics to look for, 7 bad ones and 7 good ones.  If an oil has absolutely no bad characteristics, then it is labeled “extra virgin oil”.  If it has only very minor bad characteristics, then it is a “virgin oil”.  It’s refreshing to learn that a virgin oil is only a little bit spoiled.

 

In 2009, Spain produced 41% of the world’s olive oil.  As you ride along you notice that every square foot of land it planted in something, but mostly olive trees.  Just like every hillside in France is covered with grape vines, every foot in Spain is planted with olive trees.  See photo at right.

Tonight we’re staying in the white village of Zuheros, shown below.  I don’t know it’s history but the castle dates back to the ninth century; it was built by the Arabs. Click on any photo to enlarge.

Seeing the village as the sun changes the shadows and highlights, I remember my hobby of 20 years ago, black and white photography.  Maybe that’s a more sensible hobby for someone my age!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Spain 5/09

NOTE: Clicking on any picture or slid show in this blog will produce a larger copy.

The first day of the White Villages of Andalusia was difficult, 107 km – 5 hours and 50 minutes in the saddle.  It was difficult primarily because the climbing came late in the day, the temperature was hot (95 degrees) and there was no shade. See the route.

Leaving Granada was difficult primarily because of the steep hills and narrow streets. (It’s much easier to get out of New York City – 96th and Broadway.)  Although we were primarily following the River Genil all day, we rarely saw it.  What we saw primarily was agriculture: Popular tree forests, orange and olive groves, potatoes and onions growing, asparagus being picked by hand, poppies and many types of wild flowers.  There were crops we didn’t recognize.

And we did see White Villages. Below Loja, Ventorros de Balerna and Iznajar.  Tonight we’re staying in a hotel across the river from Iznajar.

Spain 5/08

Today we visit The Alhambra (Arabic: الْحَمْرَاء‎, Al-Ḥamrā' , literally "the red one"), the complete form of which was Calat Alhambra (الْقَلْعَةُ ٱلْحَمْرَاءُ, Al-Qal‘at al-Ḥamrā’ , "the red fortress"), is a palace and fortress complex constructed during the mid 14th century by the Moorish rulers of the Emirate of Granada in Al-Andalus, occupying the top of the hill of the Assabica on the southeastern border of the city of Granada in the Autonomous Community of Andalusia.

The Alhambra's Moorish palaces were built for the last Muslim Emirs in Spain and its court, of the Nasrid dynasty. After the Reconquista (reconquest) by the Reyes Católicos ("Catholic Monarchs") in 1492, some portions were used by the Christian rulers. The Palace of Charles V, built by Charles V, Holy Roman Emperor in 1527, was inserted in the Alhambra within the Nasrid fortifications. After being allowed to fall into disrepair for centuries, the Alhambra was "discovered" in the 19th century by European scholars and travelers, with restorations commencing. It is now one of Spain's major tourist attractions, exhibiting the country's most significant and well known Islamic architecture, together with 16th-century and later Christian building and garden interventions. The Alhambra is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the inspiration for many songs and stories.

For more information click here.

At once you know Alhambra is large with over 60 buildings and monuments. Even more impressive are the gardens and the stone work. I don’t know how may acres it occupies but it takes 20 minutes to walk from the entry gate to the Nasrid Palace. 6,000 people are allowed to enter each day. Reservations to a specific time slot (e.g. 9:30) on a particular day are available through the internet.  Then you get your tickets from an ATM-like machine by inserting your credit card.  They tightly control everything but it all runs smoothly. ‘Would be even smoother without the German and Asian tour groups. Here are some photos:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Spain 5/07

Yesterday, working together, we disassembled and packed the bikes in one hour.  Today we flew from Palma to Madrid to Granada.  You usually have to pay for a second piece of luggage when flying in Europe.  But our luggage, 2 bikes and two duffel bags, was checked without question or a fee.  The only bad part of the trip was a 90 minute delay in the flight from Madrid.  But since they let us in the VIP lounge, it wasn’t a bad delay.

So we’re in Madrid where we meet our new group tomorrow evening.  The new ride is called “The White Villages of Andalusia”.  Read about Andalusia here.  It’s the red area on the map, north of the Straight of Gibraltar.

This is out first time in Granada and one thing I’ve discovered is that it is VERY hilly.  We took a two hour walk and were impressed with the greenery and parks.  Also, like all European cities, there were thousands of people on the streets on a Saturday evening.  Below, street shots of Granada.

Spain 5/06

Today is the last day of the Mallorca trip.  We have a 70 km ride back to the Delta Hotel near Palma.

At sunrise, there is a strong wind, from the North I think.  Will it slow us down?  The answer turns out to be “no”; most of the time it is a cross-wind.  We are leaving the Western coast and also the mountains.  Of course we have one climb, 1,200 feet, right out of the hotel.  We did the same climb yesterday; it seemed easier today.  Maybe we’re getting stronger, but I doubt it.  After the climb, most of the day is in fairly flat terrain – the open road!  It feels good to stretch the legs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Left – last view of the mountains.  Right – Open road.

We leave the hotel a little after 9:00 and arrive at out destination at 1:00, with only one stop for coffee.  But we’re hungry and deserve a good meal.  We’ve heard there is a shopping center past the hotel and we find an outdoor restaurant advertising pizza. I have a good pizza but Brenda’s grilled squid was the winner. Note that this blog is published a day late.

Spain 5/05

The past couple of days have been a single climb followed by a single descent.  Today, we had a lot of climbs and more elevation gain then on any day so far. See the ride.

We were on small roads much of the time.  But the thousands of cyclists here know these roads.  On several 5 to 10 km stretches, we might be going downhill and meet a hundred cyclists coming uphill   ‘Seems everyone was going a different direction from us. Photo on left is Brenda and Alison (tour leader) on the climb to Puigppunyent.  On the descent most of the switchbacks were so steep and tight they were not fun.  In fact they were scary.

Because of the long ride, not many pictures – and not much time to write a blog!

 

 

Spain 5/04

Last night was a “perfect night” on the Mediterranean.  The temperature was in the 70’s and there was no wind.  After a “plentiful” happy hour, we lingered with Glenn and Patrice. Then we walked along the shore looking for a restaurant which neither of us could describe. We found the restaurant with a landscaped patio and a diverse menu. It was obviously popular which resulted in an 1:45 “light dinner”.  But the environment was great and we didn’t mind.  Well we didn’t mind the environment or the wine.  We selected a reasonably priced Pinot blend for this second happy hour.  It was excellent, the second outstanding Mallorcan wine we’re found. 

Before leaving today, we had to take the obligatory group photo.  Remember, the average age is 66.8.

 

Today's ride (click to see it) was similar to yesterday’s both started at sea level, went over a mountain and 22 miles later brought us back to sea level. Yesterday we climbed 3,411 feet; today 2,595.

I thought today’s route was more scenic.  Yesterday we saw no manmade items other than the road in the mountains, an impressive engineering fete by itself.  Today we saw more towns and villas, often across the valley.  We also saw much more to the indescribable blue Mediterranean.  See photo below, taken from the balcony of our hotel, Mar I Vent, in Banyalbufar.  We’re here for two nights and, for the first time, we have a king bed. (The “normal” is two twin beds pusher together.)

Spain 5/03

Again we have an optional ride, Sa Calobra.  I fear this is more challenging than I want but my California friend Bob says this is a "Must Do" ride.   He says “it is something you’ll never forget” – and then assures me that he only remembers the good rides.  If you’re riding from Sa Calobra to Port de Seller, you start with a ferry ride down the Mediterranean coast.

 

 

 

 

The Sa Calobra climb itself (or descent if you go in the other direction) is a 10 km climb with an average grade of 7%.  So it is doable, although somewhat a challenge to someone my age.  Thank goodness for low gears. The ride has incredible switchbacks and incredible vistas which are difficult to show in a photograph.

Photo below is from top of Sa Colaba, but our ride goes on up before the descent.  Note photo shoot going on at left.  I rode most of the day riding with Beany and Alison, or at least within site of them.

Spain 5/02

We’re spending three nights in Port de Soller.   We arrived yesterday in ideal weather.  Brenda and I walked for an hour in the evening and took the photos below.  Forecast for today is rain and we heard showers through the open balcony door at 6:00 am.

By the time of our late breakfast the rain had stopped but it was very windy.  Not a day on the bike if there’s a choice. In fact, I only know of one rider from our group of 20 who rode today.  We went to the dock to catch the ferry around the harbor bur were advised that the sea was very rough. Next we went to catch the tram to the town of Soller.  This was a Keystone Cops operation which eventually left 20 minutes late.  We knew we weren’t in Germany or Switzerland.  Also the tram was very slow. In Soller we visited the cathedral, walked a bit and had lunch with Jackie and Perry. We found a better way home. The one way tram ride had been 4 Euros per person, 8 per couple. On the return we took a taxi – 8 Euros for two couples, and in one fourth the time.

 

Spain 5/01

We anticipate a tough day, two climbs and a total of 3,300 feet climbing. We’re actually going over these mountains to the coast so expect a long downhill at the end.  The climbs turn out much easier than we’d feared.  In fact it was a very pleasant riding day.  The temperature was in the 70’s, no wind, sunny but much of the ride was shaded.  Mainly the grade was an easy 5% and as mentioned the roads were exceptionally smooth.  We met many from our group at the top of the first climb, stopped for coffee and part of an energy bar.  We completed the 50 km by 1:30 and had lunch at the hotel in Port de Soller.

See the route and the elevation profile here.

Two pictures above are from the ride. Picture below is at Port de Soller

Spain 4/30

Photos from our farm motel, Monnaber Nou.  The hotel property dates to Arab times (VII – VIII century).  Records show the property was purchased by a well known family in 1250.  In 1888 the property was divided into the two farms in existence today. (Picture on left is our patio.)

Yesterday on the decent many of us thought “I’m glad we went in this direction – it would be much more difficult the other way.”  At breakfast this morning we learned that we’ll climb that descent tomorrow and then have another 1,200 foot climb!  Not looking forward to that. 

Today we stay off the bike. ‘Take a two hour walk and visit a cave which looked as big as Carlsbad Caverns.  I’ve had major computer problems today – fortunately my son is in Dallas and could give me tech support.  Not sure it’s all working – but if you read this, then it’s been fixed.