DI 04 San Lucchese to Siena

Twice yesterday at the hotel (san Lucchese), the staff complimented me on my Italian. Of course I only know a few words, but I do know the numbers - and that is all you need at the hotel – tell them your room number, “due cento sedici” (216).  If this were France, they would turn up their nose at me. The French want, no they demand, you speak their language. But when you try, it’s never good enough, and they make you feel like a fool. The Italians on the other hand, joke with you, help you, compliment you.  So I love Italy and hate France.

Photo at left is of chapel at San Lucchese

We’ve had an incredible, multi-course group meal each of the last three nights. I think everyone is now ready for a simpler, quicker meal  with less courses.  And maybe less socialization.  So it is fine if there are no group meals the next three days. Tomorrow we go the Siena, the town that was the equal of Florence 600 years ago. It might have been still, were it not for the plague in the early 1300’s. 

We ride for a while on SP2, the old Roman road to Siena (“All roads lead to Rome.”). The highlight of the day is visiting Monteriggioni, a town which has changed very little since they raised the town walls in 1260.  This is our cappuccino stop but we also walk the walls – great vistas. Photo at right is the church as seen from the top of the wall. Also see composite photo at end of blog.

Today’s route is beautiful; aren’t they all? This is the shortest and probably easiest day but the hills we experienced today were steep – 10 to 12 % uphill and at one time, 25% downhill. Note, the steepest paved road in the world is 39%; it is in Dunedin on the south island of New Zealand.

Click here for today's route  Note that the gap in the recording was not caused by Nixon’s secretary. My GPS batteries died and I didn’t notice for a while.

MEET THE RIDERS

Ronnie and Nanette Bryant are long-time DATES members who ride long miles. Ronnie once rode the 750 mile Boston-Montreal-Boston event and they both trained for a while for Paris-Brest-Paris, also 750 miles. They finally came to their senses and decided to focus on touring. They were on our BAC Costs a Costa tour in 2005 and also the DATES tour in England in 2007. Ronnie and Nanette don’t drink coffee; their favorite caffeine beverage, even for breakfast, is Dr. Pepper.

Photo below is a composite of 10 photos taken from the Monteriggioni town wall

DI 03 San Gimignano to San Lucchese

The weather forecast was for a cloudy day but we awoke to clear blue skies and it remained that way all day. 

We leave San Gimignano.  After the long, steep climb to the town yesterday we expected to start with a downhill today. Wrong. We climbed for about 8 miles. As we climb we can see off to our right a long valley with very low hanging clouds.

This group is really getting into “cycle touring” – which is not the way most of them cycle.  The usual is some version of “hell bent for leather” with possibly nutrition bars and/or drinks while pedaling down the road. You rarely stop.  Well at Km 11 (6 miles) today we find several already stopped for cappuccino.  This is the way is should be. Naturally, the rest of us join them.

Click here for today's route, elevation profile and some pictures.

Early in the morning we couldn’t help but notice how smooth the roads were, smoother than anywhere in the US.  But this didn’t last – we ran into more “normal” roads later in the day.

At about mile 8 we begin a long, eight mile descent. From there on it’s “rolling” but this “rolling” includes at 12% climb and a 20% downhill.  For those not familiar with tandem bicycling, the downhill momentum is incredible.  Although some of us had a drum brake in addition to our normal rim brakes, it was difficult to control the speed of the bike going down such a steep hill.

In addition to vineyards and olive orchards we see fields of sunflowers and ripe tomatoes – which we sample at lunch – read on.

Although two couples are ahead of the rest of us, 8 teams manage to eat lunch at the same “bar – Pizza house” which today doesn’t have pizza.  But everyone at our table ended up with a three course meal and wine. The salad didn’t have enough tomatoes so Jim Hoyt asked for more. This dish was rapidly consumed with all of us asking “Why can’t we get tomatoes this good in the US?”  Note again that this group would never have a three course meal during a bike ride. Particularly with vino. “La dolce vita.”  Hotel San Lucchese, a former convent, is high atop a hill, a very difficult hill to climb.  Was this the most difficult climb of the day? Or was it the wine? Photo on the right above was taken from our window.

MEET THE RIDERS

DATES Ride Directors Chuck and Kris Carlson retired about a year ago. Since then they have been on Bicycle Adventure Club rides in Northern Ireland and Yellowstone National Park.  On this last ride (last month), they climbed the 11,000 foot Bear Tooth Pass in the snow.  While Kris is a very sociable person, Chuck is a detailed man who explores any and every technology. For this tour he took ViaDelSole’s GPS track log and created GPS Route files. Some of us are benefitting from this; every road and every turn are shown on our handlebar mounted GPS units.  With a “stoker” in the back reading the instructions from the route sheets and our GPS in front of us it’s difficult to get lost.  But some do.

DI 02 Greve to San Gimignano

 

Finally we’re on the road – but it’s raining as we leave Piazzetta Santa Croce.  The rain is supposed to blow over and the weather sunny later in the day but it’s a bit chilly now.  What do we wear?  I select my rain pants but a light jacket instead of my Gortex rain jacket with hood.

 

 

Brenda and I are first out around 9:30. As we climb to the first town, Panzano in Chianti, the church bell rings a single chime; it’s 10:30. There is a beautiful view from the piazza in the town square.  (photo at right). This is the town of  the “Macelleria Cecchihi”, the most famous butcher shop for the renowned rare steak named “fiorentina”. Only the Carson’s find it; and they missed it the first time and went back to find it.

And sure enough the light rain is gone and the sun is out by 11:30 when we stop for cappuccino at Rada (photo on left).

The Barton’s and Brenda and I are in Castellina around 12:30 and discover a small Osteria, mostly inhabited by locals. We got the one unoccupied – unreserved table and have a great lunch. I think my tortellini was the best of the choices. But everyone liked what they ordered.

When we come out of the restaurant it is very cloudy and cold. We have a big descent ahead of us. I put back on some of the clothes I’ve removed in the morning but as we start downhill I’m cold. In fact I’m so cold I’m shivering. It’s now raining. So we stop and I put on more clothes as well as a plastic bag between my jersey and jacket. This only helps a little and I continue cold until we come to flatter terrain and I can pedal. The rain pretty much continues until we’re outside of San Gimignano.  Here we began a most serious climb. By the way, most of today’s climbing was in the morning but it was all gentle grades and easy. The short climbs in the afternoon however were pretty steep and difficult.

 

San Gimignano is probably the most picturesque Tuscan town with it’s 14 remaining towers (out of an original 60 or 82 or 100, depending who you listen to). Rick Steve’s describes this as a town “packed with crass commercialism”. It’s also packed with tourists, wall to wall.  But most of these tourists get back on their busses and leave in the afternoon. I hear it’s pretty nice at night. – But we don’t see the town at night. After a 2.5 hour dinner with considerable Vernaccia (a white wine, possibly the oldest in civilization, dating back to the beginning of the Renaissance) we go directly to bed.

MEET THE RIDERS

Ron and Michelle Barton are from Ottawa, Ontario – but are no strangers to DATES members.  They rode with us on two Southwest Tandem Rallies and Rally pre-tours (2000 and 2005) and were in England with us in 2007.  They ride a space-age “Air Tuesday”, a unique tandem with very small wheels and titanium beam seat posts.  Their other main interest is viniculture, both are certified and experienced sommeliers. Ron works for a GM dealer as a “drivability technician“ and Michelle is a Med Tech.  Ron also commutes to work on a bike throughout the year, which means frequently in the snow.  Although they are stronger riders than us, they rode with us most of today.

DI 01 Firenze to Greve

Today we traveled by bus to Greve and assembled the bikes.  In theory you could do all of this in three hours but it took us all day. By 4:30 all bikes were assembled and the cases were on their way to storage 40 km away.

 

Jim Yuhn’s luggage continues to be a saga but plans are under way to retrieve it tonight.

 

 

 

 

 

We assembled the tandems under the restaurant patio on the town square - were quite a site and attracted quite a bit of attention from both the locals and other tourists.  We really need to get on the bike tomorrow; people are getting cranky.

DI-01 Firenze

Sunday morning. All 10 teams are here, although the Jim Yuhn is waiting on luggage. The forecast rain is not here;  it’s 70 and sunny.

We spend Saturday and Sunday in Firenze, the City of the Renaissance.  More people (8 million annually) visit this city than visit Roma, Venice or Milan.  It’s easy to see why, especially if you have any interest in art or architecture. Our itinerary includes reservations at the Uffizi Gallery and the Accademia. We have downloaded to our Android phones Rick Steve’ audio tours of both as well as a Renaissance Walk tour.

Ponte Vecchio from a window in the Uffizi

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Above, two copies of the David. The original is protected in the Accademia.  Photos are not allowed there but I couldn’t resist (see below) – until the guard told me “No fotographia.”

 

I don’t recognize these guys!

The Duomo (below) was started in the 3th century but left with a hole in the center because they did not have the technology to build a dome. In the 1400’s architect Fillipo Brunelleschi built the dome based on the design of Rome’s Pantheon. The Duomo’s dome then became the model for the St Peter’s in Rome and the US Capital. Inside, the Duomo is very plain and unimpressive.

Visiting Florence is like looking at a friend’s 1,000 vacation photos on a DVD.  It’s overload. You can only absorb so much. We’re saturated with culture. ‘Time to get on the bike.  We take our first step in that direction tomorrow.

DI-02 DATES Italy Tour

This blog will document  “Tandem Biciclette in Italia con DATES”. 

Our 12 day tour takes us from Firenze (Florence) to Greve, San Gimignano, San Lucchese, Siena, Montalcino, Cortona, Poggiolo, Assisi, Spoleto, Todi, Orvieto and back to Firenza.

We have 10 tandem teams, 8 from DATES  plus other friends from San Francisco and Ottawa, Ontario.  You’ll meet them on the tour. This is the third international DATES tour.  Previously, we’ve toured in the Cotswold area of Great Brittan (2007) and Nova Scotia (2008). 

All of us have tandems which disassemble and can be taken with us on the airlines without paying oversize baggage extra fees.

The tour starts on Monday, September 27 but most of us plan on arriving early, either in Firenze or Roma.  With uncertainty in the airlines – and particularly with the strikes in Paris this week – and some of us traveling thru Charles DeGaul – arriving early is almost a requirement. In 2000, Brenda and I arrived in Florence with one half of a bicycle and no clothes. The other three pieces of luggage arrived 3 days later!

Brenda and I and our luggage arrive Friday without a problem. We run into Bruce and Carol at the Firenze airport and then Ronnie and Nanette on the street lugging their luggage and tandem from the train station.

Photo to right is one panel from the Duomo Baptistery doors (North side) by Lorenzo Ghiberti. Michelangelo said these were fit to be the gates to paradise. Ghiberti used mathematical principles to create the illusion of receding distance on a basically flat surface.  Actually these doors are a replica; the originals are protected from the elements in the Duomo Museum.

 

 

An hour after arriving in Firenze, Brenda and I are standing in front of the Duomo. A couple ask us for directions AND I CAN HELP THEM!  I’ve now given directions to strangers in London, Dublin and Florence. Not bad for a kid raised in Old Ocean, Texas.

WWS12 McDonald Lodge to Kalispell

This is the last day; the weather is warmer than is has been the past 12 days.  I’ve been carrying panniers (saddle bags) with extra clothes, or a place to shed clothes, the entire trip. Not today, we dress for warm weather.

Lake McDonald is calm, another good sign.  We have about 50 miles today; they should be pretty easy.This is good because I have to get to the hotel in time to disassemble and pack the bikes. We have a 4:30 a.m. shuttle to the airport tomorrow.

We leave Lake McDonald just as we arrived, on slightly rolling hills through the forest. Even after we leave Glacier National Park, we’re routed mostly on back roads with trees on either side. See today's route.

Near Flathead Lake we again turn south and are greeted by fairly strong headwind. Where did that come from? Only 12 miles of it but also more hills. And we lose the sun to clouds with a corresponding decrease in temperature. Oh well, not far to go. We’re at the motel by 12:30.

The sun sets on Lake McDonald and the BAC Western Sunset tour is over.  So the blog will also cease for a while.  Look for it to resume September 27, maybe a little sooner, when we take members of the Dallas Tandem Club to Italy. If you’re a Facebook friend, you’ll see when the first blog is posted.

WS11 St Mary to McDonald Lodge

Without much fanfare, yesterday we rode through the beginning of the Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park.  I’d been here in 1998, going in the other direction. Over the 4th of July holiday we, both US and Canadian citizens, celebrated both Independence Day and Canada Day on both sides of the border. It was a neat experience.

Early morning and there is no wind. Although this was forecast, it’s still surprising after 3 days of high winds. When we enter Glacier National Park, the friendly ranger tells us we’ve picked the best day in two weeks to go over the Going to the Sun Highway. By the way, one of the advantages of old age is the National Park Service Golden Age Passport.

We’re surprised that we don’t climb much in the first 10 or 12 miles. When the climb does start the grade isn’t too steep; maybe 5 or 6%. We have the gears and the legs for a climb like this. We’re at Logan Pass before we know it.

We’re at the top by 11:30.  It’s pretty cold and I dress for the descent.

See details of today's ride.

There is road construction both before and after the pass.  The park service has difficulty keeping the 80 year old road in good shape. We had been warned about the construction. It made riding difficult but was not as dangerous as presented.

The scenery on the way down was as good as the way up. In 1998 I rode the Going To The Sun highway in the opposite direction, the more difficult direction. I started at 6:30 in the fog, quickly quickly burned off and presented great photo opportunities.

Our destination tonight is McDonald Lodge, operated by the National Park Service. So far this trip, we’d had internet service at every motel; but we’ve rarely had cell service. Tonight, we have neither. So this blog will be posted a day late.

After a nice descent (6% for 12 miles) we have a 10 mile, mostly flat, ride through the forest. The temperature was probably around 70 degrees. It was a nice ending for a nice day.

I hope everyone is taking advantage of my hyperlinks.

WS10 Waterton Lakes Park to St Mary

A.m. temperature is not as cold as forecast but the wind is worrisome. In the park I can’t tell which direction it’s coming from. We’ll know soon enough.

We know there are two climbs this morning, both around 1,000 feet. They turn out to be steeper than previous climbs, averaging probably 7% grade.  We have mountain bike gears and today we use them; thus the climbs are not a big problem. It’s work, but not pain. See map and elevation profile at http://ridewithgps.com/trips/98792

At one point, it seems to get colder. Brenda points out snow beside the road. Duh.

As we climb, we’re sweating, in spite of temperatures in the low 50’s. But the wind is blowing and evaporating the sweat. So we’re both hot and cold. No combination of clothes seems proper.

At mile 20, almost to the top of the second climb, we re-enter the U.S. At a prior happy-hour discussion, most people – me included - have had bad experience with US immigration people. And this is not due to Sept 11; I had problems when I worked internationally in the early 1980’s. But the immigration staff at the Canadian border today is very professional and no one has a problem with entry.

After the second climb, we have about 10 miles of rolling terrain above 5,000 feet. It’s an enjoyable ride. I notice deciduous trees for the first time on the trip. There is a feeling and scent of autumn in the air. Indeed, the Waterton Lakes National Park will close for the winter in October.

We descend probably 1,000 feet and turn west on Highway 89 – and the wind is fierce for the next 12 miles. As the road makes slight turns the wind mostly slows us way down but occasionally tries to blow us from the shoulder to the right lane. For a very short time, it actually helps us. But overall it’s tough. ‘Tires us more that the two climbs. We reward ourselves with pie a la mode .3 of a mile from the inn.

Tomorrow, Going to the Sun Highway, starting with a 2,000 foot climb, twice as high as any on this trip.

WS09 Rest Day at Waterton Lakes Park

Published a day late due to internet problems at Bayshore Inn.

No, we’re not staying in the Prince of Wales lodge. But we do have this view of it from our second floor balcony at the Bayshore Inn.

It’s cool today, with a mixture of clouds and sun, rain and no-rain.  The weather is supposed to improve tomorrow, although the forecast for early morning is one degree Celsius above zero! But we’re primarily concerned about the wind. Yesterday’s last six miles into the park were tough due to the 18 mph headwind.

The next two days have a lot of climbing, particularly tomorrow – two climbs of over 1,000 feet in 5 miles.  The day after tomorrow, the “ultimate” ride over Logan pass and the “Going to the Sun” highway will take us to 6,500 feet

Last night we had an fantastic dinner at Del Lago restaurant.  It was so good, in fact, that we’re going there again tonight.  And I’ll probably order the same dish.

WS08 Coleman to Waterton Lakes Park

Written August 31; posted September 1. - Last night at happy hour, Glenn said that today’s destination, Waterton Lakes National Park is our penultimate destination.

Waterton Lakes National Park is a national park located in the southwest corner of Alberta, Canada, and borders Glacier National Park in Montana, USA. Waterton was Canada's fourth national park, formed in 1895 and named after Waterton Lake, in turn after the Victorian naturalist and conservationist Charles Waterton. The park contains 505 km² (203 mi²) of rugged mountains and wilderness.

It was sunny but cold, in the high 30’s, when we awoke.  There was no wind, but that would change quickly. Photo above is behind our motel. The 66 mile route was mostly downhill for the first half and then uphill. See the route and elevation profile at http://ridewithgps.com/trips/97611.  There are no imbedded photos in the map; for some reason that feature is not working today.

At mile 6, we stopped to observe the 1903 rockslide. 82 million tons of rock from Turtle Mountain buried the mining town of Frank under 30 meters of rock. At least 70 people died.

The windmill is the symbol of today’s ride. By the time we left Coleman, the southwesterly wind had picked up.  It helped push us to lunch – remember it was also downhill. Just before lunch, we turned south on route 6. Now the wind is coming toward us at a 45 degree angle. I didn’t think it was much of a deterrent to riding, but it made the ride colder.

Approaching Waterton Lakes National Park.