WS07 Fernie, B.C. to Coleman, A.B.

Today’s blog starts with last night’s dinner. We had an excellent dinner at the Park Place Motel restaurant, made so much better by our lovely Irish waitress Mary Brennan, shown at right. We noticed she was left-handed so I had to tell her my left-handed witticism, “Everyone is born left-handed. You only change if you sin.”  I told her my sir-name is McManus, my mother was Casey and grand-mother was Ryan from County Tipperary. So Mary called me “Tipperary Sinner”. Mary’s boy-friend is from County Tipperary.  Her enthusiastic personality reminded me why we’ve cycled in Ireland six times.

 

When we woke up, the clouds were low in the sky. Is that new snow in the mountains? But after breakfast we saw a little blue sky, as shown at left. Because of road construction we once again needed a way around it. The solution involves 11 of us taking a local bus to Sparwood, about 20 miles away. Since our route was only 40 miles to begin with, almost half of it is in the  bus. It was cold and cloudy when we got off the bus and route 3’s shoulder is in no better shape than the section we rode yesterday. But three miles later, the road shoulder becomes wide and smooth – and the sun comes out. It is already  a better day.

See route, elevation and click on yellow dots for photos. Note that first part of the route is missing; had to change batteries in the GPS. http://ridewithgps.com/trips/96449

In fact it is a great day. Incredibly beautiful scenery, with sunshine. Cool but not cold weather. The climb to Crowsnest Pass is gentle. And we have a tailwind. Find a great bakery in Coleman.  What a difference a day makes. We enjoyed the day. Enjoy the photos below.

 

WS06 Eureka to Fernie, B.C.

Eureka is about 7 miles south of the Canadian border so we’re in Canada pretty quickly this morning.  But the border crossing in not what today’s story is about.

It’s about misery. This was not a good day. Brenda says it’s the worst day she remembers in 12 years of cycling:

• Has she forgotten all of the rainy days crossing the Pyrenees? Especially the day the front came through and the temperature dropped?
• Or the day in Ireland, self-contained, when it was raining so hard we couldn’t see the road?
• Or the 103 degree Hotter ‘N Hell?

But she’s right, this was a miserable day. Temperature in the 40’s again but also it’s raining. All day. To make matters worse, the temperature drops during the day.  And there is no place for shelter; the “Dairy Bar” at mile 30 has outdoor eating only (see photo).  But bad turns to worse when we turn east on Highway 3.  The shoulder, to the right of the rumble strips is very narrow.  And the road surface (of the shoulder) is poor at best. It’s a bumpy ride but you dare not get on the road because – there are thousands of cars passing us. It seems like there is one every 10 seconds. Did everyone in Fernie leave town on Friday and are now returning home? So there you are: cold, wet, terrible traffic and terrible road surface. Is it no wonder most people only rode part way and accepted a ride in the van? I think there were only 6 of the 18 who rode the entire distance. I was one of them. Are the 5 of us brave or foolish?

Today’s route, elevation profile and more photos are at: http://ridewithgps.com/trips/95909

Photo at right is after the first 30 miles.  While we’re stopped I’m cold – but warm up somewhat once we’re moving again. Brenda doesn’t warm up until she gets to the motel. By the way, we’re at a very nice place tonight (Park Place Lodge); best of the trip so far.

WS05 Libby to Eureka

The temperature was again in the forties this morning but it felt cooler because of the cloud cover. No sun until noon. Today’s route was simple; go north on SR37. No turns. No services. The road was sooth and wide and we had it pretty much to ourselves which is surprising since it’s Saturday. Where are the fishermen? See rider and lake in next paragraph.

As we headed  north out of Libby we we on the west side of Koocanusa River (photo above on left). At about mile 17 we came to the Libby Dam (see photo an end of blog) and the rest of the day we were on the east side of Lake Koocanusa (photo on right).  We followed the lake for at least 40 miles.

Today’s route, elevation profile and more photos are at: http://ridewithgps.com/trips/94993

If you looked at the profile above you’ll realize this was a hilly day. The hills weren’t steep, probably never more than 4%. We didn’t have to use low gears. But it gives a new perspective of “rollers”. They were “rolling” from 2,500 feet to 2,900 feet. Much bigger than the rollers in Texas.

For years I’ve been joking that “Brenda’s getting stronger (as a rider) and I’m only getting older.” Well, it’s no longer a joke; it’s the truth. On both the Yosemite Lite ride in June and this one, I can’t keep up with her. How things change in 10 years. Pretty soon we’ll be back to the tandem so we can ride “together” again. The only question: Will she want to be Captain?

Libby Dam

WS04 Rest Day in Libby

I had a flat yesterday AFTER we arrived at the motel.  Must have picked up the piece of wire in the parking lot.

The hot spell is broken; today and tomorrow’s forecasts are for highs in the lower seventies. And the 10,000 riders in Texas’ Hotter ‘N Hell ride this weekend will start with a cool – for Texas in August, 67 – but it will be 97 before many finish.

We’re taking advantage of the rest day. Slept in (7:00) and then walked to an Espresso Bar; wasn’t worth the walk – weak coffee. On the way I took these two pictures (below) which show just how hokey this place, and maybe all of Montana, is.

At 1:00 we walked to “downtown” Libby for lunch. It reminded me of Sweeny, Texas in the 1950’s.  The only cafe, Libby Cafe, was pretty good.

Montana has no sales tax. Probably their state services correspond.

WS03 Trout Creek to Libby

Some of us carry a GPs or a bike computer with an altimeter.  So how much did we climb yesterday? Depends on who you ask. Somewhere between 2,700 feet and 3,600 feet. Quite a variation. And nobody knows the correct answer. But we do know that we had two significant climbs yesterday; the one in the afternoon had gradients steeper than 10%. And we know we had no significant climbs today.  You don’t really need an altimeter.

Click on the link below to see today’s route and the elevation profile. Also click on the yellow Symbols to see photographs taken on the route.

http://ridewithgps.com/trips/93853

Today we went west for 19 miles, north for 35 miles and east for 15 miles.  Most of the day, at least the first 54 miles, was in the forest so the scenery at mile 10 was the same as at mile 30 and the same as at mile 50.  The 35 mile north section (SR-56) was an outstanding cycle road; wide, smooth, rolling and very little traffic.  At mile 44 we found “Little Joes”, a cafe and bar in the middle of the national forest.  The owners were very friendly and the food great.  Our group ate all of the homemade peach pie in the restaurant.

We have about 9 miles on SR-56 after lunch.  It’s mostly down hill as we approach the Kootenai River. On US-2 going east toward Libby, we continue downhill – it looks like we’re going into a canyon.  The road takes us to Kootenai Falls (see photo at end of blog) and we hike out to see the falls.

 

Yesterday's temperatures: 80 in Dallas and 90’s in Montana.  Bob Lynn reported on Facebook that is was 120 on his ride in California. We had partial relief from the high temperatures today thanks to occasional cloud cover.

 

 

We spend two nights in Libby. Two loop rides are offered for tomorrow. one 95 miles and one retracing some of today’s route on US-2. Neither is appealing so we’ll probably take a rest day, well deserved after two 70 mile days.  And Saturday’s ride out of Libby has the most climbing for the entire tour. Rest up.

Kootenai Falls

WS02 Hot Springs to Trout Creek

Today started like yesterday, although a little warmer (mid 40’s). I correctly predicted we’d shed layers fast due to am early climb. Nothing warms you up faster than climbing a hill. In the 1970’s I took a solo, self-contained tour across Arkansas. I remember noting in my log: “As you go up the hill, the (jacket) zipper goes down. As you go down the hill, the zipper goes up.” You have simple thoughts while riding a bicycle.

Click on the link below to see the first half of today’s route and the elevation profile. Also click on the yellow Symbols to see photographs taken on the route.

http://ridewithgps.com/trips/93426

 

 

 

 

We see the landscape change from high dessert to forest and back several times during the day.

We follow the Clark Fork of the Flathead River for many miles.  The river is part of the Columbia River drainage basin. 

This is a long day, 73 miles. Brenda is the first rider to reach lunch at mile 46.  But the heat later in the day slows her down. The temperature is in the 90’s but it feels worse. It’s 4:25 and Brenda’s asleep, still in her cycling clothes. Tomorrow is supposed to be cooler.

 

WS 01 Kalispell to Hot Springs

Last night Glen said today was “pretty flat and there are some scenic vistas.” I don’t think that is possible.

It was 36.9 degrees when we woke up – but it will be in the high 80’s this afternoon. So dressing is a challenge – layering is the answer.  I started with  2 layers on my feet, hands, upper legs and arms; 3 layers on my chest and a hat that covered my ears.  I was comfortable when we left the Red Lion Hotel. As the sun rose and we also climbed, we warmed fast.  By mile 9 the first layer is removed, by mile 18 the second later, by mile 30 I’m in my shorts and short sleeved jersey.

Click on the link below to see today’s route and the elevation profile. Also click on the yellow Symbols to see photographs taken on the route. For some reason, the map stops at Elmo; we went further

http://ridewithgps.com/trips/92912

We ride much of today along Flathead Lake.  Flathead Lake is the largest natural freshwater lake in the western part of the contiguous United States. With a surface area of about 191.5 sq mi (496 km²), it is slightly larger than that of Lake Tahoe (where we were in June). It is one of the cleanest in the populated world for its size and type.

Flathead Lake has a Monster; a cryptid, a creature whose existence is not proven or disproven. Its appearance is very similar to that of the Loch Ness Monster, and the two have often been said to be the same type of creature.

 

Traffic we pretty bad today, especially on highway 93. We stopped at Elmo Community for some refreshments. Elmo has a post office, health center and art gallery buy no store, cafe or service station.  And the closest town is 30 miles.

 

There was 10 miles of major highway construction on highway 28 and bicycles aren’t allowed on this stretch.  So the leaders arranged to transport the bikes and us through the construction. Thus today’s 65 miles ride was shorter.

We’re staying in a “resort” in Hot Springs. Resort it is not. A converted house and a bunch of cabins, all decorated in early American junk.  The town is almost dead. However Brenda and I had a hamburger with FANTASTIC French fries at a bar. They had Guinness. And my tacky room in the “resort” has a Jacuzzi. Life is good.

WS00 Kalispell, Mt

 

We’re in Kalispell, Mt to begin a Bicycle Adventure Club ride called “Western Sunset”. Late arrival (11:30) last night due to weather.  This morning a assembled the bikes; we need to test them out.

Montana is a state located in the Western United States. The western third of the state contains numerous mountain ranges. Other island ranges are found in the central third of the state, for a total of 77 named ranges of the Rocky Mountains. This geographical fact is reflected in the state's name, derived from the Spanish word montaña (mountain).

Montana has several nicknames, none official,^[3] including: "The Treasure State" and "Big Sky Country," and slogans that include "Land of the Shining Mountains," and more recently, "The Last Best Place." The state ranks fourth in area, but 44th in population, and therefore has the third lowest population density in the United States. The economy is primarily based on ranching, wheat farming, oil and coal in the east; lumber, tourism, and hard rock mining in the west. Millions of tourists annually visitGlacier National Park, the Battle of Little Bighorn site, and three of the five entrances to Yellowstone National Park. Montana is bordered by the Canadian provinces ofBritish Columbia, Alberta and Saskatchewan on the north, Idaho on the west,Wyoming on the south and North Dakota and South Dakota on the east.

Kalispell is a city in and the county seat of Flathead County, Montana, United States.^[1]The population was 14,223 at the 2000 census. Kalispell is the largest city and commercial center of Northwest Montana. The name Kalispell is a Salish word meaning "flat land above the lake." Kalispell is the nearest population center to Glacier National Park.

Tomorrow we ride to Hot Springs, a distance of 65 miles. The weather forecast is good, although cold in the morning.